Your Complete Resource
The Complete Pool Owner's Guide
Everything you need to know about maintaining your pool in North Texas — from water chemistry and equipment basics to seasonal care and troubleshooting. Bookmark this page and come back whenever you need it.
Chapter 1
Welcome to Pool Ownership
Congratulations on your new pool! Whether you just had it built or you're a first-time pool homeowner, you're about to enjoy one of the best investments you can make in your home and quality of life.
Owning a pool in North Texas is a little different from owning one anywhere else. Our intense summer sun, occasional hard freezes, and alkaline fill water all create unique challenges — but none of them are hard to manage once you understand the basics.
This guide covers everything you need to know: how your equipment works, how to keep your water balanced, what to do each week and each season, how to troubleshoot common problems, and when it's time to call in a professional. Think of it as your pool owner's playbook.
You don't need to memorize all of this at once. Bookmark this page and come back whenever you have a question. And remember — our team is always just a phone call away at (469) 644-7665.
Chapter 2
Understanding Your Pool Equipment
Your pool's equipment pad is the heart of the system. Here's what each piece does and why it matters:
Pool Pump
The pump circulates water through the entire system — pulling it from the skimmer and main drain, pushing it through the filter, heater, and salt cell, then returning it to the pool through the return jets. Variable-speed pumps are the gold standard: they run quieter, use up to 80% less energy, and provide better filtration at lower speeds.
Filter
Removes particles and debris from the water. The three types are cartridge (most common in residential pools — easy to clean), sand (requires backwashing), and DE/diatomaceous earth (finest filtration but more maintenance). Your filter gauge tells you when it's time to clean: when pressure rises 8–10 PSI above the "clean" baseline, it's time.
Heater
Gas heaters heat quickly and work in any temperature — great for spas and quick warm-ups. Heat pumps are more energy-efficient for maintaining pool temperature over time, but they lose effectiveness below 50°F. Many North Texas homeowners have both: a heat pump for daily use and a gas heater for the spa or colder days.
Salt Chlorine Generator (SCG)
Converts dissolved salt in the water into chlorine through electrolysis. The salt cell needs periodic inspection and cleaning (every 3–6 months) to remove calcium buildup. Keep salt levels between 2,700–3,400 ppm for optimal performance. The cell typically lasts 3–7 years depending on usage and maintenance.
Automation System
Controls your pump, heater, lights, water features, and more — usually from a panel on the equipment pad and a smartphone app. Systems like Pentair IntelliCenter, Hayward OmniLogic, and Jandy iAqualink let you manage everything remotely. Set pump schedules, adjust temperatures, and turn on lights from anywhere.
How it all works together: Water flows from the pool → through the skimmer/main drain → to the pump → through the filter → through the heater (if active) → through the salt cell (if equipped) → back to the pool through return jets. Everything depends on good water flow, which is why keeping baskets clean and the filter maintained is so important.
Chapter 3
Water Chemistry Basics
Water chemistry sounds intimidating, but it comes down to keeping a few key numbers in range. Think of it like checking your car's oil and tire pressure — a few minutes of testing saves you from expensive problems down the road.
| Parameter | Ideal Range | Too Low | Too High |
|---|---|---|---|
| pH | 7.4 – 7.6 | Eye/skin irritation, corrodes equipment | Cloudy water, scale buildup, chlorine becomes less effective |
| Free Chlorine | 2 – 4 ppm | Algae growth, unsafe water | Eye/skin irritation, faded swimwear |
| Total Alkalinity | 80 – 120 ppm | pH bounces wildly, corrosion | Cloudy water, scaling, hard to adjust pH |
| Calcium Hardness | 200 – 400 ppm | Etches plaster, corrodes equipment | Scale deposits on tile and equipment |
| Cyanuric Acid (CYA) | 30 – 50 ppm | Chlorine burns off in sunlight within hours | Chlorine becomes ineffective (chlorine lock) |
| Salt (if SCG) | 2,700 – 3,400 ppm | Salt cell can't generate enough chlorine | Salty taste, potential cell damage |
Testing Tips
- Test in the morning before the sun burns off chlorine for the most accurate readings.
- Always adjust alkalinity before pH — alkalinity acts as a buffer that stabilizes pH.
- Never add chemicals all at once. Add one chemical, wait 15–30 minutes with the pump running, then retest before adding another.
- Bring a water sample to our showroom anytime for a free computerized water analysis.
A note about North Texas fill water: Our tap water tends to be high in alkalinity and calcium hardness. This means you'll likely need to add muriatic acid more often than pool owners in other parts of the country. It's normal — just part of maintaining a pool here.
Chapter 4
Weekly Maintenance Routine
A well-maintained pool takes about 30–45 minutes per week. Stick to this routine and you'll avoid 90% of the problems that send pool owners scrambling for help.
Skim the surface
Remove leaves, bugs, and floating debris with a leaf net. Takes 5 minutes and prevents clogged skimmer baskets.
Empty skimmer & pump baskets
Full baskets restrict water flow and reduce filtration efficiency. Check both the skimmer basket at the pool wall and the strainer basket at the pump.
Brush walls and tile line
Use a nylon brush (for plaster) or stainless steel brush (for pebble finishes) to prevent algae from gaining a foothold on surfaces, steps, and behind ladders.
Vacuum the pool floor
Use a manual vacuum, automatic suction cleaner, or robotic cleaner. Focus on corners and dead spots where debris settles.
Test water chemistry
Test pH, free chlorine, and alkalinity at minimum. Adjust as needed. A full test (including CYA, calcium, salt) should be done at least monthly.
Check the water level
Water should sit at the middle of the skimmer opening. Too low and the pump can run dry (expensive damage). Too high and the skimmer can't do its job.
Inspect equipment
Glance at the pump, filter gauge, and any automation panel. Listen for unusual sounds. A quick 30-second visual check can catch problems early.
Don't want to DIY? Our weekly service plans include all of this and more. We handle the chemistry, cleaning, and equipment checks so you can just enjoy the pool.
Chapter 5
Seasonal Care
North Texas pool care changes with the seasons. Here's what to focus on throughout the year:
Spring (March – May)
Time to open up and get swimming! Here's your spring checklist:
- Remove the winter cover (if used) and clean it before storing
- Inspect equipment: check pump, filter, heater, salt cell, and automation for any freeze damage
- Fill the pool to mid-skimmer level and prime the pump
- Test and balance all water chemistry — expect to need significant adjustments after winter
- Shock the pool with liquid chlorine to establish a chlorine residual
- Brush all surfaces, vacuum the pool, and clean the filter
- Inspect the deck, coping, and tile for any cracking or shifting from winter freeze-thaw cycles
- Schedule a professional spring opening if you prefer — we handle everything
Summer (June – August)
Peak pool season in Texas. Higher temperatures and more swimmers mean more maintenance:
- Run the pump 10–12 hours daily (or longer at low speed with a variable-speed pump)
- Test chemistry 2–3 times per week — chlorine demand increases dramatically in 100°F+ heat
- Keep CYA at 30–50 ppm to protect chlorine from intense UV breakdown
- Monitor water level daily — evaporation can drop levels fast in Texas heat (up to 1/4 inch per day)
- Clean filter more frequently — higher bather loads and debris mean faster filter loading
- Shock the pool after heavy use (parties, lots of swimmers) or after storms
- Watch for phosphates — pollen, fertilizer runoff, and organic debris feed algae growth
Fall (September – November)
Falling leaves and cooling temps change your maintenance focus:
- Skim and clean more frequently as leaves drop — a leaf net over the pool can save hours
- Reduce pump run time as temperatures drop (6–8 hours daily)
- Continue testing chemistry weekly — algae can still bloom in warm fall days
- Clean and inspect the salt cell before winter (soak in a mild acid solution if there's calcium buildup)
- Service the heater before cold weather hits — make sure it's ready when you need it
- Schedule winterization for late November before the first hard freeze
Winter (December – February)
Texas winters are mild but unpredictable. One hard freeze can cause thousands in damage:
- If not winterized: make sure your freeze guard is working and set to activate at 34–36°F
- If not winterized: run the pump continuously during freeze events — moving water doesn't freeze as easily
- If winterized: periodically check the cover for standing water and debris
- Test chemistry monthly even in winter — algae can start growing on warm days
- Never turn off power to pool equipment during winter without proper winterization
- After a freeze event, inspect equipment for leaks or cracks before resuming normal operation
Learn more about our professional winterization service and spring pool opening service.
Chapter 6
Common Problems & Troubleshooting
Most pool problems have straightforward solutions. Here are the issues we see most often and how to handle them:
Green Water / Algae
Common causes: Low chlorine, poor circulation, high phosphates, or a combination of all three.
What to do: Test and balance chemistry. Brush walls and floor thoroughly. Shock the pool with liquid chlorine (aim for 30 ppm). Run the pump 24/7 until water clears. Clean the filter frequently during the process. If algae returns quickly, test for phosphates.
Cloudy Water
Common causes: High pH, low chlorine, dirty filter, high calcium hardness, or early algae bloom.
What to do: Test all chemistry levels and adjust. Clean or backwash your filter. Run the pump longer (at least 8–10 hours). If chemistry is balanced and filter is clean, try a clarifier. Persistent cloudiness may indicate a filter issue.
Staining (Brown, Green, or Purple)
Common causes: Metals in the water (iron, copper, manganese) from fill water, corroded equipment, or low pH dissolving plaster.
What to do: Identify the stain type with a small vitamin C tablet test — if the stain lifts, it's metal. Use a metal sequestrant and balance pH. Avoid shocking until metals are treated. For severe stains, an acid wash may be needed (call a pro).
Low Filter Pressure
Common causes: Clogged skimmer/pump basket, air leak in suction line, clogged impeller, or low water level.
What to do: Check and empty all baskets. Verify water level is at mid-skimmer. Inspect the pump lid o-ring for cracks. If pressure is still low, the impeller may be clogged — turn off the pump and clear debris.
High Filter Pressure
Common causes: Dirty filter media, closed return valve, or obstruction in the return line.
What to do: Clean or backwash the filter. If pressure doesn't drop, the filter media (cartridge, sand, or DE grids) may need replacement. Check that all return valves are fully open.
Equipment Making Noise
Common causes: Cavitating pump (air in the line), worn bearings, loose mounting bolts, or debris in the impeller.
What to do: A screaming or grinding pump usually means failing bearings — this needs professional replacement. A gurgling or surging sound indicates an air leak on the suction side. Check the pump lid, drain plugs, and pipe fittings for leaks.
Suspected Leak
Common causes: Losing more than 1/4 inch of water per day (beyond normal evaporation) may indicate a leak in plumbing, shell, or fittings.
What to do: Do a bucket test: fill a bucket to the pool water level, set it on the step, and compare evaporation over 24 hours. If the pool drops more than the bucket, you likely have a leak. Contact us for professional leak detection.
Chapter 7
When to Call a Professional
Some things are perfect for DIY. Others can get expensive fast if you try to handle them yourself. Here's a general rule of thumb:
DIY-Friendly
- Skimming, brushing, and vacuuming
- Testing and adjusting water chemistry
- Cleaning skimmer and pump baskets
- Backwashing or cleaning the filter
- Replacing the pump lid o-ring
- Cleaning the salt cell
- Basic troubleshooting (basket check, water level, etc.)
Call a Professional
- !Pump motor replacement or electrical work
- !Heater repair or gas line work
- !Leak detection and repair
- !Plumbing repairs (underground or at equipment)
- !Salt cell replacement or wiring issues
- !Automation system programming or troubleshooting
- !Acid wash or plaster repair
- !Tile, coping, or structural repair
- !Any work involving electrical connections or gas
Signs It's Time to Call
- Pump is making grinding, screaming, or humming-but-not-starting sounds
- You smell gas near the heater
- Water loss exceeds 1/4 inch per day consistently
- Visible cracks in the pool shell or beam
- Equipment is tripping the breaker
- Green water that doesn't clear after shocking and running the pump 48+ hours
Chapter 8
Pool Safety
Pool safety is everyone's responsibility. These aren't suggestions — they're essential practices that protect your family and anyone who uses your pool.
Barriers & Fencing
Texas law requires a barrier (fence, wall, or building wall) at least 48 inches high around residential pools. Gates must be self-closing and self-latching with the latch on the pool side. We partner with Katchakid for removable mesh safety fencing — it's one of the best investments you can make.
Drain Safety
All pools must have VGBA-compliant drain covers to prevent entrapment. Never allow anyone to play near or sit on drain covers. If a drain cover is missing, broken, or loose, do not use the pool and call for service immediately.
Supervision
Drowning is silent and fast — it can happen in under 30 seconds. Always designate a "water watcher" when children are in or near the pool. Avoid distractions (phones, books). Never rely solely on pool alarms, fences, or flotation devices as a substitute for active supervision.
Chemical Storage & Handling
Store pool chemicals in a cool, dry, well-ventilated area — never in direct sunlight or near heat sources. Keep different chemicals separated (especially chlorine and acid — they create toxic gas when mixed). Always add chemicals to water, never water to chemicals. Wear gloves and eye protection when handling concentrated chemicals.
Electrical Safety
Keep all electrical devices (radios, phones, chargers) away from the pool water. All pool electrical equipment must be properly bonded and grounded per NEC code. GFCIs should protect all outlets near the pool. Never attempt electrical work yourself — always hire a licensed electrician.
Learn more about our pool safety partners and products.
Chapter 9
Your Warranty
If Prestige built your pool, you're covered by one of the best warranty programs in the industry. Here's an overview of what to expect:
| Component | Typical Coverage |
|---|---|
| Pool Shell (Structure) | Lifetime structural warranty |
| Interior Plaster / Finish | Up to 15 years (varies by finish type) |
| Tile & Coping | 2–5 years |
| Plumbing | 2–5 years |
| Equipment (Pump, Filter, Heater) | Manufacturer warranty (typically 1–3 years) |
| Salt Chlorine Generator | Manufacturer warranty (typically 3 years) |
| Automation System | Manufacturer warranty (typically 3 years) |
| Decking / Hardscape | 2–5 years |
What Can Void Your Warranty
- !Improper water chemistry: This is the #1 cause of voided plaster warranties. Low pH, low calcium, or unbalanced water etches and damages the finish over time. Keep records of your water tests.
- !Unauthorized modifications: Any structural changes, plumbing alterations, or equipment additions not performed by or approved by Prestige.
- !Failure to maintain: Letting the pool sit without circulation, chemistry management, or basic cleaning for extended periods.
- !Using incompatible chemicals: Certain chemicals (like copper-based algaecides or trichlorinated tablets directly in the skimmer) can damage finishes and equipment.
To submit a warranty claim: Call us at (469) 644-7665 or submit a service request. Include photos of the issue and your pool's approximate build date. We'll schedule an inspection and walk you through the process.
Chapter 10
Prestige Is Here to Help
You don't have to figure it all out alone. Whether you need weekly maintenance, a one-time repair, or just want to ask a quick question, our team is here for you.
How We Can Help
Weekly Pool Service
We handle all the chemistry, cleaning, and equipment checks.
Equipment Repair
Pumps, heaters, filters, salt cells, automation — we fix it all.
Leak Detection
Professional electronic leak detection to find and fix leaks fast.
Pool Renovation
Replastering, new tile, equipment upgrades, and complete remodels.
You can also chat with Poolie, our AI assistant, anytime — look for the chat bubble in the bottom-right corner of any page. Poolie can answer quick questions, help you troubleshoot, or connect you with our team.
Frequently Asked Questions
Pool Owner FAQ
Quick answers to the questions we hear most from pool owners.
How often should I test my pool water?
Test at least twice a week during swimming season (spring through fall) and once a week during winter. Use a reliable test kit or test strips — we recommend the Taylor K-2006 kit for accuracy. Bring a water sample to our showroom anytime for a free professional analysis.
How long should I run my pool pump each day?
In North Texas summers, run your pump 8–12 hours daily. In winter, 4–6 hours is usually sufficient. Variable-speed pumps can run longer at lower speeds, which is more energy-efficient and better for water circulation. Your automation system can schedule this automatically.
Is a saltwater pool really maintenance-free?
No — saltwater pools still require regular chemistry monitoring. The salt chlorine generator produces chlorine for you, but you still need to manage pH (salt systems tend to raise it), alkalinity, calcium hardness, and CYA. You also need to inspect and clean the salt cell every 3–6 months.
Why does my pool turn green overnight?
If chlorine drops to zero — from a rainstorm, heavy bather load, or expired CYA protection — algae can bloom in as little as 24 hours in Texas heat. The fix is maintaining consistent chlorine levels (2–4 ppm) and keeping CYA between 30–50 ppm to protect chlorine from UV breakdown.
How do I know if my pool has a leak?
Normal evaporation in North Texas summer is about 1/4 inch per day. If you're losing more than that, do a bucket test: place a bucket of pool water on a step, mark both the pool and bucket water levels, and check after 24 hours. If the pool level drops more than the bucket, call us for professional leak detection.
When should I replaster my pool?
Most plaster finishes last 10–15 years depending on water chemistry maintenance. Signs it's time: rough texture that snags swimwear, visible staining that won't come out with chemicals, crazing (spider web cracks), or delamination (plaster pulling away from the shell). We offer free replaster evaluations.
Do I need to winterize my pool in Texas?
Texas doesn't get prolonged freezes like northern states, but we do get sudden hard freezes that can crack pipes and damage equipment overnight. At minimum, make sure your freeze guard is working and your equipment runs during freezes. For full peace of mind, professional winterization is the safest option.
What's the best way to heat my pool in North Texas?
Heat pumps are the most energy-efficient option for North Texas — they work well down to about 50°F air temperature. Gas heaters heat faster and work in any temperature but cost more to operate. Many homeowners use a heat pump for daily use and a gas heater for quick warm-ups or colder months. Solar covers help retain heat overnight and reduce evaporation.
Need Help With Your Pool?
Whether it's a quick question or a full service plan, we're here for you. Call us, schedule online, or chat with Poolie right now.